dsm Dish - September 5, 2025

FTW: Four excellent eateries in Ames

By Karla Walsh

Heading to Ames for the big game? No matter which team you’re cheering for on Saturday, you can fuel up at the following restaurants. Bonus: They’re worth the drive from Des Moines all year round.

Cornbred: In early 2021, a Facebook post about their now-famous 1½-pound cinnamon rolls nearly broke the internet. But that’s not the only big draw to this barbecue spot in downtown’s old railroad depot. For brunch, dig into the cheddar-chive biscuit and brisket or share a tray of candied and spiced bacon bites, known as “Pig Candy.” At dinner, sides like cornbread pudding, sweet corn salad or the creamy, cornflake-topped Hallelujah Potatoes can round out a mighty fine meal. (526 Main St.)

La Tosca: You might recognize the name from its previous iteration, Bar La Tosca, but the eatery rebranded after it took over the old Stomping Grounds. The laid-back cafe is open all day for coffee and brunch, small plates, pizzas, pastas and sandwiches. Order a bottle of wine to share or sample cocktails as you split an antipasti plate, goat cheese and local mushroom toast, and marinara-smothered beef and pork meatballs. For entrees, try the ricotta gnocchi or grilled pork loin. (303 Welch Ave.)

Pammel Grocery: Yes, we’re recommending a grocery store. But there’s a reason why this west-side shop has been open for 34 years. The deli tucked inside the Middle Eastern, Indian, Pakistani, Turkish and African supermarket is home to some of the best gyros, hummus, falafel and baklava you’ll find in Central Iowa. Every entree is under $15, and most — including the top-notch chicken gyro dinner and kofta kabob sandwich with fries — ring in at $9 or less. Make sure to pick up feta and olives before you head out. (113 Colorado Ave.)

Provisions Lot F: While The Cafe on the north side of town is a timeless and tempting choice, its younger sibling near the south-side Iowa State University Research Park has just as much to offer. The lunch and dinner menus feature pizzas made fresh daily with slow-fermented sourdough crust. It’s also a stellar brunch spot for top-notch chicken and waffles, biscuits and gravy, and stuffed-to-the-brim three-egg omelets. On the way out, grab a pint of house-made ice cream or a slice of peanut butter cheesecake to go. (2400 N. Loop Drive)

This article has been updated from its original version published in September 2021.

Contributing writer Karla Walsh has written health, travel, food and dining stories for dozens of local and national publications including Better Homes & Gardens, Food & Wine, Allrecipes and more. Find her on Substack at What's Good.

What's an easy recipe to impress guests?

“Coq au vin. It’s not difficult, and it can be prepared ahead of time. I watched Julia Child make it on public television when I was in high school. We had all the ingredients at the house, with the exception of cognac. Since my mother didn't want to buy a full bottle, I suggested we go to the nearest bar, where she could order a single glass. I brought an empty glass that we filled and brought home.”

— Mike Simonson, Des Moines city councilor and president of Simonson & Associates

Quick Bites

Choose Iowa is organizing its inaugural statewide Choose Iowa Farm Open House, Sept. 13-14, to promote pumpkin patches, apple orchards, farm stores, farm-to-table meals and other agritourism highlights. The event coincides with the Iowa Barn Foundation's All-State Barn Tour. This fall’s free, self-guided barn tour includes a record-breaking 103 barns across the state.

The Iowa Restaurant Association reports that hundreds of Iowa restaurants are struggling financially, with an average of 300 closures each year. That number could double due to increased costs and wages. "Vendors who sell us food, the large food providers, they raise prices in anticipation of tariffs," IRA President and CEO Jessica Dunker told KCCI.

The Bistro at DMACC’s Iowa Culinary Institute is accepting lunch reservations for Sept. 10 through Oct. 17.

A new restaurant and bar is taking over the former Stuffed Olive location at 208 Third St. We spotted a crew adding some finishing touches to Judges DSM before it opens for upscale cocktails and bites. Keep an eye on our Restaurant Radar for updates.

Events

Sept. 13: The Cast Iron Cook-off is back at Living History Farms. Who will whip up the tastiest meal with surprise ingredients over an open fire or wood-burning stove? To find out, you’ll have to travel back to 1700, 1850, 1876 and 1900.

Sept. 14: Self-Help International’s farm-to-table dinner at the Mohs Barn in Winterset features a three-course menu with sweet potatoes and corn — staple crops in Ghana and Nicaragua, where Self-Help works to fight hunger. Proceeds from the dinner support the nonprofit’s programs in farming, women’s empowerment, clean water and education.

Sept. 21: Picnic Theater: “Agrimusic” at the Wallace Farm in Orient features a farm-fresh picnic and a concert by the local musician and Iowa historian Seth Hedquist.

Sept. 26: The Dahlias in Bloom dinner at PepperHarrow near Winter offers five courses with wine pairings in the middle of gorgeous fields of flowers. There are worse ways to spend an evening, right?

Sept. 27: Oak Park’s Harvest Dinner, a second annual tradition, showcases the season’s final garden harvest in a six-course dinner created by Oak Park executive chef Ian Robertson and Michelin-starred chef Byron Gomez of BRUTØ in Denver.

The 'badass' on the back 40

By Micaela Cashman

“That’s farmin’, baby.”

Those are words to live by for Mariah Romano, who founded FarmBaby in 2023 in Lucas, a small town between Osceola and Chariton. With more than a decade of farming experience, she’s seen the chaos agriculture can bring and credits her “que sera, sera” approach for keeping her sane as she’s built her farm from the ground up.

“The land itself was raw when we bought it,” she said. “There were no water lines, no electric infrastructure.”

The magnitude of the project was daunting for Romano, who handles most of the labor herself. She sees her land as a blank canvas for her dream of managing her own farm.

“As a first-generation female farmer, I’ve heard remarks like, ‘You know farming is hard work, right?’” she said. “On the other hand, a frequent compliment I get is, ‘Mariah, you’re such a badass.’”

With a 2014 degree in horticulture from Iowa State University, Romano set out to work with diverse growing operations across the country and developed a passion for regenerative agriculture. All the produce she grows — strawberries, raspberries and microgreens cultivated in a repurposed shipping container — is organic and adheres to the exacting standards of the National Organic Program.

Her mission is to “provide quality produce with a powerful connection from the grower to the consumer,” which makes a difference in the current market. According to the Iowa Farm Bureau Food and Farm Index, 40% of Iowa shoppers look for a “made locally” label on the food they purchase. Romano also sells produce to private chefs and local restaurants, including Clyde’s Fine Diner, Oak Park and Savor the Rise, the popular bakery and cafe in Indianola.

One of her biggest partnerships came from Instagram. Iowa Pepper Co., a small-batch hot sauce company run by husband-and-wife duo Jeff Lynch and Caitlin Barnes uses all locally grown ingredients. When Romano discovered them online, they were growing peppers in their West Des Moines backyard and quickly running out of space. The company jumped at the chance to grow their peppers on FarmBaby soil.

“Local produce is a vital link that strengthens our community,” Lynch wrote in an email. “When local makers build direct relationships with growers, they gain consistent access to fresh high-quality ingredients, foster collaboration and contribute to a resilient local economy.”

While Romano’s farming career comes with ups and downs, she said she is grateful to bring a fresh perspective to Iowa’s small-farm community.

“I love that this farm was a blank slate,” she said. “Watching my vision develop over these first few years has been incredibly fulfilling.”

Check out FarmBaby’s farmers market schedule at farmbabyiowa.com and Iowa Pepper Co.’s schedule at iowapepper.co.

Contributing writer Micaela Cashman lives in Des Moines and works as a freelance video producer and writer.