dsm Dish - April 18, 2025

Capon confidential: plump, tender, full of flavor

By Wini Moranville

“You know what a capon is, right?” a chicken farmer named Letha Holdeman asked me.

“Yes,” I said. “And there’s really no nice way to put it, is there?”

We were talking about what made her chickens so flavorful. Indeed, while caponizing — or neutering — young roosters might not be the most pastoral topic, it’s the secret to the Holdeman family’s rich, succulent birds. Once caponized, the roosters grow plump, tender and more flavorful than your average supermarket chicken.

The Holdemans have been raising capons in northeast Iowa since 2012, supplying them nationwide. If you spot one in a store, often only around holidays, odds are it came from the Holdemans even if it’s sold under a different brand name. Bigger than a chicken but smaller than a turkey, a whole capon is ideal for small holiday gatherings.

My favorite cut, however, is the boneless, skin-on thigh. Nearly impossible to find in supermarkets, these are perfect for entertaining: You get all that flavor and crisp texture from the skin and deep flavor from the thigh meat, but guests don’t have to hassle with cutting around a bone.

As far as I know, you can find this cut only at the Iowa Food Cooperative. Often, the thighs are available in the freezer case at the Coop’s storefront at 4944 Franklin Ave. You don’t have to be a member to simply walk in and shop, but do take note of their limited hours. However, the most sure-fire way to get your hands on the goods is to join the Coop and order them (and other great Iowa-grown and raised products) as you need them. Find out more about joining on their website.

Intrigued? Try the capon thighs in my Roast Chicken Stuffed with Ricotta, Shallots and Fines Herbes, inspired by Iowa-born cookbook legend Richard Olney. The recipe calls for chicken breasts, but I always use capon thighs. Or simply roast them and serve with a bright spring salad, like I did with a terrific salad from Nourished DSM.

Wini Moranville has been writing about the Des Moines food and restaurant scene for over 25 years. Check out her weekly e-newsletter, Dining Well in Des Moines.

Tastemaker

Where do you take out-of-towners to eat?

"Our dining choices vary depending on who’s joining us. When we’re with family craving authentic Mexican flavors, we head to Fantasty Tacos (their tortas are unbeatable), Taco Mariana’s, Tacos la Familia or La Baja Cocina. Gorditas Rosi is another favorite — worth the wait every time.

"For a more distinctive dining experience, I always enjoy Harbinger. And when we have multiple kids, Either/Or is a top pick."

— Marcela Hermosillo-Tarin, co-owner of Serenity By Design and division HR director for Arvum Senior Living, a company of Discovery Senior Living

Quick Bites

Masao, a fresh take on Japanese and French cuisines, will open under the direction of Nick Hanke in the former Miyabi 9 spot in the East Village. Phil Shires, former executive chef at Cafe di Scala and its later iteration Aposto, will lead the kitchen. Hanke’s family operates Waterfront Seafood in West Des Moines and Ankeny, and he learned sushi-making techniques from Mike Miyabi, the longtime owner of Miyabi 9. Read more from the Register.

Tarboosh Lebanese Kitchen, a new food truck, has shifted into gear to offer Lebanese cuisine like shawarma, falafel and baklava until 3 a.m. Owner Mohamad Baydoun is from Beirut and began cooking in 2020 when he was homesick for dishes he grew up with. Read more about the new late-night bite spot from Axios.

Oak Park announced a dual-powered dinner event coming up June 28. Ian Robertson, Oak Park’s executive chef, is teaming up with Grant Gillon, winner of MasterChef’s 13th season. The six-course tasting menu will feature dishes co-created by the pair, showcasing bold flavors and creativity.

The Iowa FFA Foundation, a nonprofit promoting the Future Farmers of America youth education program, announced that Joshua Remington will resign as executive director after almost 14 years to pursue a new opportunity, according to a news release. The Iowa FFA Foundation executive committee has appointed Dave Holm as interim executive director during the transition.

Events

Tuesday: The Cheese Shop hosts a tasting of German wines. For reservations, call 515-528-8181.

April 26: Oak Park and Lua Brewing team up to host a six-course tasting dinner paired with beers.

May 1: The Valley Junction Farmers Market opens on Fifth Street in West Des Moines, with live music at Railroad Park every Thursday through the end of September.

May 3: The Downtown Farmers' Market opens with the clang-clang-clang of the ceremonial cowbell on Court Avenue and continues every Saturday morning through the end of October.

May 3: The Blue Ribbon Bacon Festival returns to the Iowa State Fairgrounds and promises a place for bacon lovers “to feast on tasty bacon delicacies, to get weird and to have a grand ol’ time,” according to their porky promotional prose.

May 3: Cinco de Mayo in Valley Junction celebrates the neighborhood’s past and present connections to Latino culture with live entertainment and plenty of delicious food.

May 8: The Centro Spring Rosé Dinner celebrates the season with a garden-fresh five-course menu designed to perfectly pair with a selection of rose wines.

For pairing advice, I turned to Blair Zachariasen, the certified sommelier and assistant general manager for Wall to Wall Wine & Spirits in West Des Moines. And as usual, her suggestions were spot on: They’re listed below, from light to full body, so you can pick and choose or consider a multi-course progression for the ultimate feast.

San Rabano Sparkling Vermentino, $20
This light and citrusy bubbly offers a nice alternative to Prosecco. It’s ideal for a welcoming drink but also pairs well with salads, egg-based brunch dishes, lox or fish. “This sparkling wine is crisp, refreshing and springy,” Zachariasen said. “It doesn’t have the yeast and butter flavor attributes that some dislike from a traditional Champagne.”

Fevre Chablis 2022, $40
An excellent example of the Chardonnay grape grown in northern Burgundy, this wine can pair with honey-baked ham, salmon or poultry. Chablis is also a great match for spring vegetables and herb-based sauces. This wine is fermented and then left on its lees (spent yeast) in the tank. “The technique gives the wine a creamy texture without taking away the freshness of the fruit. It’s luscious and round without being heavy,” Zachariasen explained. Pro tip especially for Iowans: The wine’s creamy nature makes it an ideal match for a mayonnaise-based side salad. Cue the spring pea salad!

By.Ott Cote de Provence Rosé, $30
Some say Easter is the unofficial start of rosé season. If so, why not kick it off with one of the best on the market? This wine is the “second” label from famed winemaker Domaine Ott. That means you can expect wine made from the same estate but at half the price. It’s an Easter workhorse that goes with salads, vegetables, fish and poultry.

Purple Hands Kropf Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022, $60
Zachariasen became smitten with this wine on a recent trip to Oregon. She’s not the only one. Both Wine Spectator and James Suckling give it 94-point ratings. Despite being a “Club Only” offering from Purple Hands, Zachariasen successfully finagled a limited supply for her store. Get it while you can: It would be delicious with ham or grilled salmon.

E. Guigal Gigondas 2019, $40
Zachariasen calls this red a “baller on a budget” for those wanting Chateauneuf-du-Pape vibes without the high price. The southern Rhone red is a blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre. This wine loves lamb dishes, but it’s not too heavy for ham and can even hold up to beef.

Earth Day is Tuesday. To honor Mother Nature, here are two quick tips to reduce your carbon “foodprint”:

Reduce your animal protein consumption by replacing one meaty main dish with a plant-based one once a week. Try this vegan lemony white bean soup from Jackfruitful Kitchen.

Reuse and recycle your leftovers. Turn to creative cookbooks like Tamar Adler’s "The Everlasting Meal Cookbook" or Julia Turshen’s "Now and Again" for tips to make the most of leftovers and reduce your environmental “foodprint."