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PRESENTED BY: LINCOLN SAVINGS BANK
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Unifloral honeys that bees make primarily from the nectar of a single kind of plant, like dandelions or chestnut trees, vary widely in color and taste. (Photos: Duane Tinkey)
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Meet the honey
sommelier of Indianola Honeybees helped Katie Flinn find peace and a new career
By Brianne Sanchez
Tasting honey is a sensory experience. With the right guidance, sampling botanical varieties can feel almost sacramental.
“Let it sit on your tongue,” honey sommelier Katie Flinn told me as a spoonful of complex sweetness melted in my mouth. I closed my eyes and concentrated on the flavor. The dab of dandelion honey tasted like a summer day. Like sunshine, distilled.
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Flinn founded Milk & Honey Orchard and Apiary in Indianola after a career in the military and loves to help people sample honey from her hives. Whether she’s at a farmers market, leading
an event at the Greater Des Moines Botanical Garden or collaborating with chefs for honey-themed dinners, Flinn likes to talk up the properties that make her locally produced honey special.
“We take our hives to different areas when nectars are flowing,” she said. “We’re in our fourth season and, last season, we pulled eight unifloral honeys.”
Unlike commodity honey, which is combined from multiple sources and sometimes pasteurized, Flinn’s operation pulls and spins honey from hives of bees that feed on a singular type of pollen. Unifloral honey from dandelions, for example, or blossoming trees like locusts, lindens and chestnuts, each have unique qualities that a trained tongue can detect.
Have you ever attended a wine tasting? Sampling honey is similar. It’s often professionally evaluated in a wine glass, but when Flinn guided me through the steps, we made do with a small plastic container.
Holding the base of the vessel helps melt the crystals and sweeten the flavor. Then stir the honey to release the aromas. Notice the color and viscosity before taking a big sniff. The differences in the honey’s molecular structure influence its texture, Flinn said. Blueberry honey has medium-sized crystals that burst in your mouth. Dandelion honey’s ammonia scent can be off-putting at first.
When you taste a small amount, try to hold it on your tongue. Flinn said sunflower honey tastes like apricot jam.
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Hive to table
Flinn and Lone Oaks Farm are expanding their series of artisanal honey dinners in 2025, with events planned for June 14, Aug. 9 and Oct. 18. During each meal of the series, which Flinn will prepare, she'll talk about the honeys' properties and production process. Single tickets are $150 online.
Chef Aaron Holt of Catering by Doolittle Farm worked on the inaugural dinner at the farm and designed each course to highlight the flavor of a different unifloral honey. He created a sous vide pork belly dish that used Flinn’s blueberry honey. Black locust honey, which is very light, went into a vinaigrette. The bitter notes in a chestnut honey complemented a creme brulee. Creative techniques, like a caramelized honey smoke made from drizzling honey onto hot coals, added depth of flavor to a prime rib.
“I was blown away with the complexity of each
honey and how different each one was,” Holt said about his initial tasting experience. “Certain varieties are a little more bitter, some have a lot more sugar content. The different consistencies and mouth feel you get is pretty crazy. I was a true believer from that tasting.”
READ MORE: Flinn's interest in honey started during her service with the U.S. Air Force and, later, the buzz of honeybees helped soothe her post-traumatic stress. You can find the full fascinating story of her beekeeping career in the new print edition of dsm or online at
dsmdish.com.
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Tastemaker
What's one dish in Central Iowa you can't live without?
"The Incredible Hulk sushi roll at Sakari." It's made with cream cheese, cucumbers, tempura shrimp and tempura crab, topped with avocado, tempura flakes, scallions, unagi sauce and seafood sauce.
— Tony Dickinson, president, NCMIC Finance Corp.
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Quick
Bites
Happy Pi Day, nerds! Blaze Pizza is celebrating Pi Day (today, 3.14) with a special deal: Buy one 11-inch pizza and get a second for $3.14. In other crusty news, the Des Moines Register recently rounded up a list of 32 local pizzerias, enough for a whole month of dinners and one to spare. Plus, Iowa Starting Line rounded up 11 local places for pie.
Piece & Freedom Bakery is now open in Ames. The Ukrainian bakery is owned by Shalika Khindurangala, her mother Iryna, and her friend Hanna Petro. According to Iowa Public Radio, the
business has boomed in popularity, prompting Ukrainians in Minnesota and Wisconsin to swing south and stock up on treats that taste like home.
New restaurants are popping up like early daffodils. Hawaiian Bros. Island Grill opened in Waukee, and Istanbul Grill Cafe & Bakery opened in Urbandale. (Trust us: Try the baklava). On Monday, 30hop bar and grill is opening in a new location in the District at Prairie Trail in Ankeny, with all-day specials to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day. Check out more recent openings on our Restaurant Radar.
The World Food & Music Festival was voted No. 5 in this year’s USA Today 10Best Readers’ Choice Awards for Best Cultural Festival. This year’s festival is set for Aug. 22-24 in Western Gateway Park.
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Events
March 28: A Seafood Boil is set for the Rollins Mansion terrace, complete with shrimp, andouille sausage, crawfish, corn on the cob, and music from the Other Brothers.
March 29: Iowa Food Co-op hosts an open house at its headquarters at 4944 Franklin Ave. It’s an online farmers market that operates year-round to sell products that are grown or made in Iowa.
April 6: The Iowa Restaurant Association hosts a celebration of Iowa chefs with a gourmet seven-course dinner paired with fine wines.
April
9: Cicchetti Night, hosted by the Italian-American Cultural Center of Iowa, is set for Noah's Ark Ristorante. Cicchetti (chee-KETTy) are Italy's version of tapas.
April 9: A
five-course dinner with wine pairings led by chef Katie Van Dyke will take place at her alma mater, DMACC’s Iowa Culinary Institute.
April 18: “La Cocina” (“The Kitchen”), a 2024 comedy-drama that unfolds in the high-pressure kitchen of a touristy restaurant in New York’s Times Square, screens for one night only at the Varsity.
April 26: Winefest’s Vino in the Village takes over the East Village for an afternoon of samples, scavenger-hunt style. Pick up a glass and a map at check-in and stroll through participating stores to taste wines from around the world.
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Chef Suman Hoque of HoQ and Flora received a grant to scale up his HoQ Sauce. (Photo: Duane Tinkey)
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HoQ sauce heats up the East Village
By Emmett McMenamy
A popular local hot sauce is now available in grocery stores, thanks to a boost from a state grant.
HoQ, the East Village eatery that serves locally sourced fare, received a $25,000 Choose Iowa grant from the Iowa Department of Agriculture and Land Stewardship in March 2024 to scale up its hot sauce production. Chef and co-owner Suman Hoque buys most of his hot sauce ingredients from Iowa farmers and producers.
Hoque opened HoQ in 2012 and has guided its growth, with a HoQtail bar, HoQ-branded product sales in local grocery stores and a new spinoff restaurant called Flora at the Greater Des Moines Botanical Garden. The state grant has been a key ingredient for continued success.
“I was excited,” Hoque said. “We are the first restaurant to get that grant.”
The Choose Iowa grant allocates money to
farms, small businesses and nonprofits to boost Iowa agriculture. Hoque used it to buy freezers, packaging equipment and other necessities to sell his hot sauce to a bigger market.
The space next to HoQ, which is at 303 E. Fifth St., used to be a coffee shop but is now packed with tomatoes and freezers for hot sauce production. Before Hoque bought the extra space in 2018, he’d never really envisioned an expansion because the restaurant industry is so challenging.
“I opened the business when I was 30 years old. Now I’m 42,” said Hoque, who grew up in Bangladesh. “I said: ‘I’m young. If I
lose, I start over again.’ ”
Hoque hasn’t needed to start over in a new career. He worked as a chef in Greece, Colorado and Wyoming but settled down here in Des Moines after HoQ’s success. He’s mixed his global experiences with local ingredients to create unique flavors, including the spicy kick of his hot sauce.
“People love it,” he said. “Why don’t we bring that product to the grocery store?”
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The Cheese Shop now sells a French butter called Beurre de Baratte. “It’s seriously the best butter we’ve ever had,” C.J. Bienert told us in an email.
The shipment they ordered for the winter holidays sold out in two weeks, but they’ve replenished their supply, for good reason. “It’s the old-fashioned way of slow churning and hand forming that makes this the world’s best butter,” Bienert explained. “It’s like a soft cloud of cream with large flaky salt for texture.”
He recommends it with a drizzle of honey or with a tin of grilled sardines from Gueyu Mar.
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(Photo: Darren Vanden Berge)
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If you like this newsletter, you may also enjoy dsm Weekly. Subscribe for free to receive updates every Wednesday about local arts, culture, festivals and more. As always, send your ideas, tips, questions and corrections to editors@bpcdm.com.
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From Business Publications Corporation Inc., 300 Walnut St., Suite 5, Des Moines, Iowa 50309. 515.288.3336.
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