dsm Dish - March 21, 2025

Raise a glass to Des Moines' most creative cocktails

By Lily Allen-Dueñas

Des Moines’ cocktail scene is anything but ordinary. Sure, you’ll find the classics — but you’ll also discover creative drinks that go beyond the expected. These are cocktails that feel like an experience, crafted with care and worthy of praise. While national critics may not be clamoring to Des Moines (yet), I’m here to celebrate and share the best craft cocktails this city has to offer. Ready? Set? Sip.

The Karate Kick, the Bartender’s Handshake
If you ask around town for the best cocktail, one name comes up again and again: the Karate Kick. This drink has reached near-legend status — let’s just make that official — among bartenders and cocktail lovers alike. It’s a bold mix of Swell vodka, Ancho Reyes, carrot, ginger syrup, lime, ancho chili and mint. Imagine a carrot smoothie that has a rebellious streak — fresh, spicy and slightly sweet.

The Strawberry Stratus, the Contrary
Even though the Contrary just opened in November, it’s already become one of my go-to spots. Their standout drink menu makes it hard to pick favorites, but the Strawberry Stratus keeps calling me back. It’s made with Broker’s gin, lime and strawberry syrup, topped with a delicate cloud of aquafaba, mint, sake and matcha. The result? A stunning, fruity drink with velvety green-tea depth.

The Bell Brasky, Juniper Moon
Yellow bell pepper in a cocktail? Stick with me here. The Bell Brasky isn’t just an experiment — or an inside joke — it’s an experience. This drink starts with bell pepper-infused rum, giving it a hint of earthiness and an elegantly grassy base. Add in Nolet’s gin, lemon, lime and a touch of vanilla bean, and you get a cocktail that balances bright acidity with smooth, mellow warmth.

Noah’s Smoked Old-Fashioned, Aura Restaurant & Lounge
If you’re looking for showmanship and substance, this drink delivers. The tableside presentation starts with Elijah Craig bourbon, simple syrup, and Angostura bitters poured into a decanter with hickory and cherry wood smoke. After a moment’s rest, the smoke is released into the glass, billowing into a pillow before the cocktail follows. The smoke may turn heads, but it isn’t just for effect; it adds aromatic depth and complexity that transforms this into a cocktail worth savoring. If you’re not an Old-Fashioned drinker, this one may persuade you to give it a try.

The Valley Junction Sour, Cooper’s on 5th
This cocktail features Glenmorangie Lasanta 12-year scotch, lemon juice, maple syrup, egg white, simple syrup and a Malbec float. Yes, you read that right: scotch and red wine in the same glass. This Sonoma County girl was more than a little skeptical, but then I took a sip. It’s rich, tart and smooth all at once. It works beautifully.

The K-Drop, Harbinger
Harbinger’s bar philosophy mirrors its food: seasonal, local and ever-evolving. The top-notch bartenders here craft balanced drinks that tend toward deep, earthy flavors with an umami edge. The K-Drop, for example, features vodka, eucalyptus, Korean pear, lemon and white pepper. It’s just one good choice among many, so my advice: Don’t overthink it. Just trust the bartenders, and they’ll give you something special.

The Cryptic Mystic Fortune-Teller Picnic, Table 128
Creativity is always on the menu at Table 128, and while I still hope their unforgettable ube cocktail makes a return, I highly recommend the Cryptic Mystic Fortune-Teller Picnic. This layered drink includes Brugal Añejo rum, Yellowstone Toasted bourbon, Saveiro Castanea, Cynar, Rogue hazelnut reduction, dark cherry, allspice and mustard seed. It’s nutty, warm, not too sweet and so complex you’ll want to sip it slowly.

Various surprises, Good News, Darling
Getting into Good News, Darling — the intimate cocktail bar tucked behind Hello, Marjorie — can take a bit of persistence. But the reward is a menu that pushes boundaries, especially with their culinary foams and infusions. Past stunners include:
August 8th: gin, mezcal, charred watermelon preserves, toasted pine nuts, parmesan foam.
Holiday Coffee Cocktail: Japanese whisky, coffee, apple, caramel, wasabi, coconut miso whip.
Lemon Bar: buttered rum, vanilla, honey, ginger, lemon, graham cracker, cheesecake wash.
Twilight Zone: gin, fermented Romaine hearts, pickled young strawberries, smoked almonds, Kalamata olives and a blue cheese wash.

Whether you’re sipping a smoked Old-Fashioned, swirling a Malbec-floated sour or braving the briny depths of a cocktail with fermented Romaine, the city’s cocktail scene is creative, ambitious and worth exploring. It’s more than a trend; it’s a destination — and every sip is an adventure.

Quick Bites

Iowa Secretary of Agriculture Mike Naig announced last week that 15 Iowa dairy projects have been awarded Choose Iowa Dairy Innovation Grants. The cost-share grants will help expand on-farm dairy processing and incorporate labor-saving technology, both of which will help to increase the availability of Iowa dairy products for consumers. One grant recipient is the Iowa State University Creamery in Ames.

Cua Vang is the young local baker behind the adorably sweet treats of Rose Chu, the Asian-inspired microbakery. Read more from Axios.

Lua Brewing was recently voted the No. 1 Brewpub in the United States in USA Today’s Readers’ Choice Awards.

Hotori is now open at 1417 Walnut St. The locally owned boutique sells an assortment of kitchen gadgets, cookbooks, snacks and more.

Events

March 29: Iowa Food Co-op hosts an open house at its headquarters at 4944 Franklin Ave. It’s an online farmers market that operates year-round to sell products that are grown or made in Iowa.

April 6: The Iowa Restaurant Association hosts a celebration of Iowa chefs with a gourmet seven-course dinner paired with fine wines.

April 9: DMACC's Iowa Culinary Institute hosts a five-course dinner with wine pairings led by alumna chef Katie Van Dyke.

April 10: Urban Dreams and Winefest present a fundraising dinner paired with Chris Christensen’s Bodkin Wines, a Black-owned company with Iowa roots.

April 18: “La Cocina” (“The Kitchen”), a 2024 comedy-drama that unfolds in the high-pressure kitchen of a touristy restaurant in New York’s Times Square, screens for one night only at the Varsity.

Cicchetti: A taste of Venetian tradizione

By Andrea Barutta

In the heart of Venice, the concept of cicchetti has long been a cherished tradition, offering a unique way to savor the city's rich culinary heritage. Cicchetti, the Venetian version of tapas, are small plates of food typically enjoyed with a glass of wine or a spritz in the convivial atmosphere of a local bacaro (wine bar).

A cicchetti night promises an exploration of flavors, textures and aromas that exemplify the essence of Venetian cuisine.

Cicchetti (chee-KETT-y) trace their origins to the bustling markets and taverns of Venice, where merchants, sailors and locals sought quick, flavorful bites to sustain them through their day. The name itself is derived from the Venetian dialect word "cicheto," meaning "small bite." These small plates allowed patrons to sample a variety of dishes without committing to a full meal, fostering a spirit of sharing and camaraderie.

A true cicchetti night is best experienced in a traditional bacaro, where the ambiance is as important as the food. These cozy, often rustic establishments are scattered throughout Venice, each offering its own unique array of cicchetti. The interiors are typically adorned with wooden beams, dim lighting and shelves lined with wine bottles, creating an inviting atmosphere that encourages lingering and conversation. Patrons usually stand at the bar or gather around small tables, chatting and laughing as they sample different bites. The air is filled with the sounds of clinking glasses, animated conversations and the occasional burst of laughter in a place that feels both intimate and communal.

No cicchetti night is complete without a selection of Venetian wines and spirits. Prosecco, the sparkling wine from the Veneto region, is a popular choice, offering a light and refreshing complement to the rich flavors of the cicchetti. For those seeking a more robust option, a glass of red wine or an Aperol spritz — the iconic cocktail from the neighboring town of Padova (Padua) made with Aperol, prosecco and soda water — is the perfect pairing.

One of the most delightful aspects of cicchetti is the element of discovery. Each visit to a bacaro offers a chance to try new dishes and combinations, as menus often change with the season and the creativity of the chef. In spring you might find asparagus and artichoke cicchetti; in autumn you might find mushrooms and squash. Chefs often experiment with new recipes and flavor combinations, adding touches of innovation to traditional fare, from modern twists on classic dishes to entirely new offerings inspired by global cuisines.

But above all, the true essence of cicchetti lies in the shared experience. Guests are encouraged to try a bit of everything, share their thoughts and to enjoy the convivial atmosphere.

Cicchetti are more than just a meal. They offer a journey through the rich culinary traditions of Venice. Whether in a bustling bacaro or in the comfort of your own home, the spirit of cicchetti lies in the joy of sharing, discovering and savoring each delightful bite.

Andrea Barutta grew up near Padova, Italy, now lives in Des Moines and serves on the Heritage Advisory Council of the Italian-American Cultural Center of Iowa, which originally published this essay in its March newsletter.

Mark your calendar

April 9: Cicchetti Night. 5-8 p.m. at Noah's Ark Ristorante. Tickets are $60.

Nov. 6: Gala Dinner and Cultural Center Reveal. Details about the event at Krause Gateway Center will be posted soon by the Italian-American Cultural Center of Iowa.