dsmWeekly: February 21, 2024

Eric Baccam from the Rollcicles team chugs a bowl of broth at the 2024 Pho King Cook-Off. (Photo: Kimann Huynh)

FOOD & DINING

Pho contest winners bowl over the competition

By Michael Morain

At first glance, the annual Pho King Cook-Off seems like an excuse to giggle a little and wear funny shirts that say “Pho King Delicious” and “Pho King VIP.”

But like the signature dish it celebrates, there’s a lot going on beneath the surface. Every Southeast Asian culture has its own versions of the broth and noodles that originated in Vietnam, with regional variations — and opinions — that sharply diverge.

Ten culinary teams duked it out at the Iowa Asian Alliance’s sold-out showdown this past weekend at the River Center. Bobby Q’s Hawaiian Grill in Cedar Falls won the judges’ prize, while the Knoxville-based food truck Pho T was the judges' runner-up. Mama Phan’s local team won the people’s choice award, and the Rollcicles were the people's runner-up.

The local Eggroll Ladies won this year's bonus category, for egg rolls, edging out a team called Arcadia, which hopes to open a restaurant in Polk City.

“It’s a friendly competition, but man, they take it seriously,” event organizer Nu Huynh said.

As she explained it, traditionalists insist on the clarity of the broth, which should be aromatic and delicious even on its own. Pho King purists turn up their noses at broth boosters like sugar, hoisin sauce and even ketchup. “The broth shouldn’t look like muddy sink water,” Huynh said.

More experimental chefs like to toss in the whole kitchen sink, including seafood, chili oil, fried onions and other nontraditional veggies. But whatever goes into the pot, Huynh said, “it should be balanced.”

After a yearlong renovation, the iconic ballroom is back and better than ever. (Photo: Devin Zepeda)

BEST BET

A breath of fresh Val Air

You can take a peek at the recently renovated Val Air Ballroom during a special open house from noon to 4 p.m. Sunday. To accompany the ribbon-cutting, the local bass player Jon Locker hopes to break a world record for cranking up the most guitar amplifiers at the same time. Later, the James Biehn Band will christen the new stage with some classic rock tunes and invite other local musicians to join them for an open jam.

Read about the Val Air’s remarkable 85-year history and $15 million makeover in our recent story by Kyle Munson. And check out the lineup, which is filling up fast.

The Week Ahead

Postmodern Jukebox (8 p.m. Friday): This gang of jazz musicians first went viral a decade ago with reinventions of modern pop hits from artists like Miley Cyrus and Radiohead. Now, they’re stopping by Hoyt Sherman Place on their 10th anniversary tour. Vintage outfits encouraged.

Bingo Bash (11 a.m.-7 p.m. Saturday): The morning Rotary Club of Des Moines hosts one of Iowa’s biggest Bingo events at the Iowa State Fairgrounds to raise money for three great local causes. We dare you to play all eight hours.

“Lift Every Voice in Love” (4 p.m. Saturday): Broadway, gospel and opera star Roosevelt André Credit sings from the songbook of Black music to help raise money for youth programs at the Grubb Community YMCA. Tickets are free, but registration is required.

“Blue Christmas” (7 p.m Saturday): The Fleur Cinema and Cafe screens the world premiere of this redemptive ghost story written and directed by Max Allan Collins (“Road to Perdition”), which features an Iowan cast and crew.

Heron Valley (7:30 p.m. Saturday): The Scottish band works its magic with fiddles, banjos and Great Highland bagpipes to raise the roof at Holy Trinity Hall in Beaverdale, courtesy of the Celtic Music Association.

Des Moines Gamer Symphony Orchestra (4 and 6 p.m. Sunday): Immerse yourself in the award-winning music from popular video games like “Super Mario” and “The Legend of Zelda” at Grand View University’s intimate Viking Theater. For this program, the orchestra gets a power boost from the Des Moines Concert Handbells and NOLA Jazz Band.

Local artist Sara Johansen doused a photo of her daughter, Adeline, in “film soup” to create this colorful portrait.

COMMUNITY

A photographer’s recipe for success

Mix two parts boiling water, one part dish soap, a splash of vinegar, the juice of one lemon, a pinch of kosher salt and one roll of Kodak film in a large mason jar. Submerge the film for at least three hours and stir it frequently. Follow up with a cold water rinse, then run the film through the dryer five times or allow it to air-dry for up to three weeks.

This is the “film soup” recipe that local photographer Sara Johansen uses to create prints that burst with energy and color despite their rough-and-tumble development. Think of a caterpillar that liquefies in its chrysalis before emerging as a butterfly.

Johansen’s nontraditional techniques embed in her photos memories and even physical remnants of the places they were taken. “I want to put my own spin on it,” she said. “It’s fun to see where you can take a traditional image and make it different.”

Check out a few of Johansen’s photos and read more about her creative process in our profile by Mathany Ahmed.