dsm Dish - November 15, 2024

Memories from the Pillsbury test kitchens
Inside the ticklish, doughy belly of the beast

By Mary Jane Miller

Ever since Pillsbury hosted its first bake-off 75 years ago, its popularity has risen like poppin’ fresh dough. Thousands of home cooks across the country develop recipes for a chance to win $50,000 and a place in culinary history.

On Thursday, the company announced this year’s winning recipe: Mini Beef Wellingtons with Smoked Gouda Dipping Sauce. Runner-up honors went to a Caramel Apple Tiramisu and Cinnamon-Cardamom Crescent Twists.

Every year, the announcement reminds me of the time I tested recipes for Pillsbury publications in the 1990s. One of the steps is “tolerance testing.” It’s a way to ensure that every baking recipe is essentially idiot-proof before it’s published, because for a lot of home cooks, nothing is worse than a failed recipe. They blame themselves, and it’s a waste of both ingredients and enthusiasm. So tolerance testing pushes the boundaries of a successful bake by replicating common mistakes: too much flour, too little oil, a small egg, a shiny pan, a black pan, an oven that’s too hot or cold. … It’s a long list. That’s why recipes say, “Bake for 10-12 minutes or until golden brown.”

Back in the ’90s, the Pillsbury test kitchens in downtown Minneapolis were still staffed entirely by women, and it was like a sorority. We all knew each other so well. When you’re cooking, there’s plenty of time to talk about life, families and all the trials and tribulations that go along with them. On my birthday, a kitchen sister left a potted coreopsis on my desk. Another day, I scored a deeply discounted copper All-Clad pot while shopping on my lunch hour, and everyone celebrated my trophy.

In 1998 I was asked to be the tolerance coordinator for the 50th anniversary bake-off. Before any actual cooking started, the Pillsbury team reviewed tens of thousands of entries. The top picks made their way into the test kitchens, where a full staff of testers would prepare them for daily taste panels. Since each entry had to contain a qualifying Pillsbury ingredient, we knew we were in for many weeks of crescent rolls, pie crust and salsa.

Twice a day, a taste panel of about 10 of us would sit in a conference while the testers brought in entry after entry, giving us a run-down of how the recipe performed. Then we’d look at our sample and taste it, turning it over to look for signs of raw dough or other cardinal sins. The recipes that passed muster would then be handed off to me for further testing, so we could edit and perfect them for publication. The winning recipes from the taste panel were then pitted against each other, until we narrowed the list down to 100 recipes for the final competition.

These 100 recipes also went to the “search team,” a group of mostly retired test-kitchen pros who were tasked with researching each recipe to make sure it was truly original. I remember the glee in a searcher’s voice whenever she found one that had been published before. “Found one!” she’d cry, brandishing a copy of the offending recipe.

If a recipe failed its tolerance test, I had my own moment of glee. That sounds harsh, but it ultimately made us very proud of all the recipes we eventually published.

In 1998, the recipe that won the $1 million prize was Salsa Couscous Chicken from Ellie Mathews of Seattle. As a skillet recipe, it didn’t need tolerance testing — but good for you, Ellie.

As I was writing this, I got a note from one of my old test-kitchen friends, who wrote to say that one of the kitchen managers had recently lost her husband. The sisterhood of the kitchen will hold her up, and the coreopsis still blooms in my garden every summer.

Mary Jane Miller lives in the country north of Indianola. Her career has included stints as a food writer, chef, cooking teacher and food scientist for various clients, including Betty Crocker, the Food Network, Pillsbury, Target and the Minnesota Governor’s Residence.

Tastemaker

Where do you take out-of-towners to eat in Central Iowa?

“I recently took three Japanese farmers who were in town for the World Food Prize to Prime & Providence. Chef Dom [Iannarelli] and his team knocked it out of the park. Beyond that, I go to Jesse’s Embers for an intimate old-school dinner, Oak Park or 801 to impress, Lucky Lotus or Rolling Wok for Southeast Asian — and JR’s Southpork Ranch during the Iowa State Fair!”

— Brooks Reynolds, chairman of the Blue Ribbon Bacon Festival

Quick Bites

KPOT Korean BBQ & Hot Pot opened the chain’s first Iowa location on Monday at 7105 Mills Civic Parkway in West Des Moines.

Backpocket Brewing is taking over production of Peace Tree Brewing brands after operations of the Knoxville-based company ended this past summer. Beer fans will be able to find the popular Blonde Fatale, recognized by Untappd Community Awards in 2023 as the third-best Belgian-style blonde ale beer crafted in the United States, and other Peace Tree classics at Backpocket Brewing locations and retailers.

Susan Stapleton, the Des Moines Register’s dining expert, wrote about the best five dishes she ate in September and October. The list includes Topgolf tacos and birria grilled cheese at the new Hi Fi Brew Lounge in West Des Moines.

The Iowa Culinary Institute is hosting its fifth annual Thanksgiving Dinner Roll fundraiser to help cover the costs for students to attend the 2025 American Culinary Federation National Convention in Las Vegas. Order dinner rolls by the dozen until noon Nov. 25.

Bubba is offering carryout options for Thanksgiving. Leave the cooking to the pros with pickup options for pies, sides and even cocktails. Orders are due by Nov. 26.

Andrew Fuller, local baker, owner of Sugar Freakshow and Season 1 winner of Netflix’s “Is It Cake?” returns to the show for the holiday season. “Is It Cake? Holiday” debuts Nov. 28.

Events

Today: Confluence Brewing Co. celebrates the release of a new Scottish-style ale called Gray's Lake Nessie made with Friedrichs coffee. (Check out the video.)

Tonight: The Greater Des Moines Botanical Garden hosts its annual Champagne & Chocolate celebration to raise funds for the garden and its programs.

Saturday: Whippoorwill Creek Farm in Lovilia hosts a Thankful Dinner, with a bonfire, samples from Hare & Hawk Ciderworks in Jasper County and a farm-to-table feast in the barn.

Sunday: A gaggle of local queens perform for a Drag Brunch at Carper Vineyard and Winery in Norwalk.

Nov. 22-24: The Downtown Winter Farmers’ Market returns to the Iowa Events Center.

Nov. 27-28: Hope Ministries offers one of several free holiday meals around town, available for delivery and at the Hope Cafe at Bethel Mission north of downtown. Go online to reserve a meal or register to help.

Dec. 5-8: Christkindlmarket, the outdoor holiday market brings Old World charm to the plaza outside Principal Park, where you’ll find handcrafted gifts, European-style goodies and traditional music.

Dec. 6: Salisbury House and Gardens hosts Spirits & Sparkles, a holiday party with food, drinks and live entertainment.

Thanksgiving in Des Moines: make this, buy that

By Haley Scarpino

Thanksgiving is one of my favorite holidays. It’s in the fall, arguably the best season, and you get to show love through food.

But even if cooking isn’t your love language, you can still show up for the people you care about. You don’t need to make everything. You can make the one recipe that means the most to you — the dish you associate with a special memory — and then delegate or buy the rest.

To help you plan, I’ve outlined a traditional Thanksgiving meal, with a few of my favorite recipes, plus some recommendations for food to buy locally. But remember: You can make whatever you like! One year, my family celebrated with a lasagna, Caesar salad and Basque cheesecake. It was perfect.

Make: Tuscan Turkey Roulade
From “Modern Comfort Food” by Ina Garten
If you’re up for it, the turkey is a great thing to make. (My in-laws make the turkey the day before Thanksgiving, carve it and reheat it in a roasting pan with chicken stock. It’s delicious every year.) Generally, you want to plan for 1½ pounds of turkey per person. Does your crowd eat mostly white meat? Try a turkey breast. Cooking for a small group? A roast chicken would work. Vegetarian? Skip the bird and celebrate “Sidesgiving.” You can order your turkey locally at Gateway Market, The Good Butcher and West Forty Market.

Make: Turkey Gravy with Onions & Sage
From “Make It Ahead” by Ina Garten
It’s simple to make, up to a week ahead, and totally worth it.

Make: Classic Sage and Sausage Stuffing
From “The Food Lab” by J. Kenji López-Alt
I’ve been using different iterations of this recipe for years. It’s so simple, and it’s so good. This year, I’m making it with cornbread.

Make: Sweet Potato Casserole
From “Cook’s Illustrated Cookbook”
I love this sweet potato recipe and make it every year. It’s so sweet and satisfying. The streusel topping is divine and adds great texture.

Buy: Appetizers
Keep it light, keep it easy. The Cheese Shop is an amazing local option. Buy cheese, eat cheese! Can’t eat cheese? Buy olives, eat olives! Shrimp cocktail is always a hit and couldn’t be easier to pick up from The Waterfront.

Buy: Mashed potatoes
Mashed potatoes are a lot of work, so they’re a great thing to buy. You can purchase mashed potatoes from Gateway Market or Palmer’s Deli & Market. If they aren’t exactly how you like them, add a little (or a lot) of butter, sour cream, roasted garlic, salt and black pepper. Put them in a 9-by-13, top them with butter and reheat.

Buy: Vegetable side dishes
There are some great options for sides out there. Gateway, Palmer's and West Forty Market have great holiday menus. You can get a nice mix of casseroles, warm veggies and fresh salads.

Buy: Rolls
If you’ve never experienced a roll from Noah’s Ark, you are missing out. You can order rolls from Noah’s for Thanksgiving. They are the absolute best. Done and done!

Buy: Desserts
If baking isn’t your thing, support one of the many great bakeries in town. A few of my favorites are The Bake Shoppe, The Chocolate Storybook, Pie Bird Pies, Pies and Pastries by Lana, Prairie Rose Desserts and many more.

While you’re out shopping, why not pick up a few extra items and drop them off at a community fridge? You can help everyone have a delicious holiday.

Haley Scarpino is a chef, home cook, recipe tester, food editor, and graduate of the Iowa Culinary Institute.