dsm Dish - December 6, 2024

Flora to open Dec. 18 at Botanical Garden

By Wini Moranville

At HoQ, chef-owner Suman Hoque has stayed true to the mission he set when he opened the restaurant in 2012: to showcase Iowa products and support local farmers. Except for a few things we just don’t produce here — salt, pepper, lemons, limes — 90% of his ingredients come from our state.

While Hoque made a name for himself in the fresh and local movement (while also making a lot of diners very, very happy), he’s allowing himself some flexibility with his new restaurant, Flora, set to open Dec. 18 at the Greater Des Moines Botanical Garden.

“I’ve got more options!” he said as he gestured toward the menu. While Iowa will be the source for many of Flora’s ingredients — such as late fall vegetables like squash, tomatoes frozen from the summer, cheese from Milton Creamery, and bison from Whiterock Conservancy — he’s granted himself permission to branch out. After all, the restaurant’s name nods to a garden’s bounty; honoring that necessitates sourcing more vegetables than what you can find locally in an Iowa winter. Hence, ingredients like broccoli, kale and cucumbers will round out the season’s offerings.

One specific ingredient comes from far beyond Iowa’s borders: his mother’s homemade spice blend, shipped directly from Bangladesh. “It’s her own mixture,” he said. “She dries, crushes and blends the spices herself before sending them to me.”

Hoque explained that Bangladeshi seasonings aren’t necessarily hot; rather, the spices are light, bringing flavor and aromatics more than heat. He uses the blend sparingly, adding just a pinch here and there for a signature spin on his creations.

Flora’s opening menu is designed with winter in mind, featuring hearty soups, sandwiches and a couple of entrees. When asked for his top three recommendations, Hoque didn’t hesitate:

The HoQ Mediterranean Bowl is a popular item from his flagship restaurant (which will no longer serve lunch). This vibrant dish features lentil falafel, seasonal vegetables, turmeric couscous and Milton Creamery quark cheese.

The Bucatini and Meatballs pair grass-fed beef meatballs with a red sauce enhanced with kale. “I always like to add something green to my food,” he said.

The Bison Chili is a true winter warmer made with local bison, black beans, sour cream and a hint of his mother’s “secret spice.” He especially recommends adding a fried egg for extra richness.

While these dishes are thoroughly enticing, I keep circling back to the Tandoor Chicken Salad Sandwich, served on house-made focaccia with watermelon radish. For $2 more, you can swap the accompanying salad for a cup of soup. I have my eye on the chickpea soup with massaman curry and coconut cream.

Starting Dec. 18, Flora will be open 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Wednesdays through Sundays. Hoque said he hopes to add a Sunday brunch soon, from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Find it at the Greater Des Moines Botanical Garden at 909 Robert D. Ray Drive.

Quick Bites

Allspice Culinarium sells a “Taste of Des Moines” spice set of favorite local flavors like the Mo’Rub BBQ blend and Gusto Pizza Co. seasoning. Dsm contributor Karla Walsh recommends it as a gift idea, in addition to her recent round-up of cookbooks.

Cheba Hut, a marijuana-themed sandwich chain, opens its first Iowa location on Monday in Johnston. Find more than 30 signature toasted subs plus other munchies, craft cocktails and beers on tap.

Pints by Beth is running a 60-day Kickstarter campaign to raise enough money to secure a brick-and-mortar space in Highland Park. The local small-batch ice cream pop-up was created by Beth Mensing in 2020. Rewards for donating include free stickers, T-shirts, monthly pint subscriptions and even a chance to create and name your own flavor.

Now open in the Drake neighborhood, a new spot called Cafe Chai offers traditional Indian bites like dahi puri, plus lassis, chai and coffee. Owners Parvinder “Baba” Singh and Jaswinder Kaur said they want to blend traditional Indian flavors with modern twists.

Mulberry Street Tavern is serving up a Christmas dinner to-go package with glazed ham, scalloped potatoes and dessert. Just heat it up at home and enjoy. (If only all family dinners could be so easy.)

The Stuffed Olive hosts weekly “Wine Down Wednesdays” with live music from local acts and free glasses of wine 4 p.m. to midnight.

Barn Town Brewing’s new pancake of the month is Billy’s Blueberry Cheesecake with a cheesecake mousse and blueberry compote, topped with crumbled graham crackers, fresh blueberries and lemon whipped cream.

Events

Tonight: Salisbury House and Gardens hosts Spirits & Sparkles, a holiday party with food, drinks and live entertainment.

Dec. 8: Chefs Derek Eidson and George Formaro whip up a multicourse Dickensian Dinner, inspired by “A Christmas Carol.” And may God bless us, every one!

Dec. 13: The Wallace Centers of Iowa hosts another Hearts & Homes Luncheon at the historic Wallace House in Sherman Hill. The three-course meal is part of a program of readings from the “Hearts & Homes” columns Nancy Cantwell Wallace edited from 1895 to 1909 for Wallace’s Farmer magazine.

Dec. 10: The team at Centro hosts Nolet’s Noel, a “spirited dinner” featuring Nolet’s gin.

Dec. 15: The Iowa Asian Alliance hosts its annual Pho King Cook-Off at the River Center. Pho real.

Dec. 19: Moxie Kitchen hosts a Feliz Navidad feast that starts with pozole rojo and ends with pineapple rum cake. What’s not to love?

Dec. 28: Sarah Pratt, who sculpts the butter cow at the Iowa State Fair, shares a few tips during a butter sculpting workshop on Iowa Statehood Day at the State Historical Museum of Iowa. Heads up: Reservations are required, and participants should be at least 8 years old.

Through early January: Several local bars and restaurants have decked every inch of their halls (and doors, floors, ceilings and windows) for the holidays. For a full dose of lights and tinsel, check out SnowGlobe 2024 at Exile Brewing Co., Rudolph’s Rooftop at the Republic on Grand, and the Santa Paws Pop-Up Bar at Paws & Pints. Check the websites for details and reservations.

Holiday Baking 101: Cookies
Five simple tips to improve your results

By Haley Scarpino

I love to cook, whether making myself a coffee and a perfect piece of toast or making my friends and family a big meal. However, nothing brings me more joy than baking — and, of course, eating baked goods.

I also love the precision of baking, but it can be frustrating. You buy all the ingredients, get out the stand mixer, line the sheet pans, measure and mix the ingredients only for your cookies to spread into one giant burned mess. And then, you still have to clean up. The worst!

Here are a few helpful tips to help you avoid common pitfalls and bake the best holiday cookies in town.

Read the entire recipe from start to finish. This step is especially important when baking. You'll sort out all the ingredients, details and timing. It takes just a few minutes and starts you off on the right foot.
Put things in place. The French cooking term “mise en place” refers to the simple step of gathering all your equipment and ingredients before you start. Pull out the bowls, the measuring spoons and measuring cups. Then prep and measure all your ingredients. It makes your baking more organized and efficient, and you won't realize you're out of eggs halfway through the project.
Bring ingredients to room temperature, unless the recipe says otherwise. If they’re too cold, they won't emulsify properly. (That’s mixing two or more wet ingredients into an emulsion.) So just let your ingredients sit on the counter for an hour or two before you start.
Properly cream the butter and sugar. This is one of the most common mistakes of home baking. Most cookie recipes start by creaming together the butter and sugar until the mixture is pale yellow and has doubled in volume. It usually takes 3-5 minutes or longer, depending on the temperature of your butter and kitchen. You'll want to stop mixing two or three times and scrape down the sides of the bowls with a rubber spatula. You can use a stand mixer, a hand mixer (which will take a bit longer) or a plain old spoon (which will take even longer). Once the butter and sugar are creamed, you'll add the room-temperature eggs, one at a time. If your eggs are cold, they won't emulsify as well. Even if you use shortening, margarine, oil, or some other fat besides butter, it's still important to properly cream the fat and sugar.
Chill the cookie dough. This is essential. Allowing your cookie dough to chill for even 30 minutes allows the ingredients to "marry" or fully absorb. It also helps to solidify the fat, which prevents the cookies from spreading in the oven. If you can, let the cookie dough chill overnight. They’ll have a deeper flavor and a better texture. Keep in mind: It’s easiest to scoop the cookies at room temperature and then let them chill. You can store scooped cookie dough in the fridge on a sheet pan (if you have the space), on a dinner plate, in a storage container or in a zipper bag. When you're ready to bake them, just place them on the sheet pans.
Bonus tip! Preheat your oven and get an oven thermometer. The oven might run hotter or colder than you think.

If you're looking for great cookie recipes this holiday season, I recommend “100 Cookies” by Sarah Kieffer. You must try the Pan-Banging Chocolate Chip Cookies. They are famous, and for good reason.

I also recommend “Cookies” by Zoë François, which is incredibly comprehensive and can answer all your questions about ingredients and equipment. It also includes the most incredible recipes. My personal favorite is the Snickerdoodle recipe.

If you ask us, a free or discounted meal at your favorite restaurant is an ideal way to spend an evening. If you need a quick and easy holiday gift, check with your own favorite spots about gift cards or certificates. Some popular restaurants even let you order gift cards online, like Clyde’s Fine Diner, Harbinger, Lucky Lotus, Oak Park, Panka, and Prime & Providence. If you’re indecisive, restaurant groups offer cards that work at any of their owned locations, like Orchestrate Hospitality (Centro, Django), Dark Side of the Spoon (Wellman’s Pub, Grimaldi’s) and Heart of America Group (Republic on Grand, Johnny’s Italian Steakhouse).