dsm Dish - May 9, 2025

The best way to spend $100 at The Cheese Shop

By Wini Moranville

When I walked into The Cheese Shop of Des Moines to interview owner C.J. Bienert, I passed a rush of spreads, jams, conserves, pickles, olives, chocolates and more. Next came the sweeping display of artisanal cheeses from around the world, followed by a cooler stocked with cured meats, fancy butters and other indulgences. Behind me: racks of wine, including more sparkling choices than you’d expect in such a snug little spot.

Wow, I thought: How are we going to narrow this down to the best way to spend $100 for this assignment?

Within 2 seconds, Bienert had a strategy. “Tell them to order my monger board,” he said. “It’s the best introduction to the shop.”

It wasn’t what I’d come in to write about, but I listened — and learned.

“Trouble is, sometimes you come in, buy a few chunks of cheese and throw them in your fridge’s ‘cheese drawer,’ which, let’s be honest, can become a ‘cheese coffin’ once you forget about them,” he said.

And those condiments? Check your pantry. You probably have a few unopened, possibly expired jars you’ve long been meaning to use.

“People don’t have time to figure out what cheeses and accompaniments to get,” Bienert added.

Instead of overthinking it, let the staff choose for you. They’ll pick the cheeses they’re most excited about, pair them with cured meats and just enough condiments (not a fridge-cluttering amount), plus a few extras: nuts, dried fruit, cornichons and crackers — just enough to make a full spread, but not so much that leftovers languish.

Really, it’s genius — and far more satisfying than spending $100 on hunks of this and jars of that and other things you might not get to. Monger boards range from $20 to $60; I took home the $30 version (three cheeses and two meats, pictured), and two of us enjoyed “happy hour” nibbles for three days. Zero waste.

Still, if a C-note is burning a hole in your pocket, here’s what Bienert recommends to buy in addition to a $30 monger board:
Peter Lauer Saar Riesling Brut ($42): “Great for day-drinking and phenomenal for the money.”
Minnow Cod Liver ($9.99): “The foie gras of the sea.”
Jose Marina Rio Mackerel in Curry Sauce ($15.99): A standout from the tinned-fish boom.

Find The Cheese Shop of Des Moines at 833 42nd St. or call (515) 528-8181.

Tastemaker

Question? What's your favorite kitchen gadget?

“It’s a traditional Mexican mortar and pestle made from volcanic rock. It’s perfect for grinding spices and aromatics, and I use it several times a week. It reminds me of my marriage because I purchased it in October 2006 during our honeymoon in a little mountainous town near Puerta Vallarta. The action of grinding and blending things also reminds me of the beauty and impact of marriage — two people bringing all of themselves to the relationship to make a single life together.”

— Jo Christine Miles, director of the Principal Foundation and Principal community relations

Quick Bites

Black Bagel owners Lloyd Yates and Devin Lam (pictured) plan to open a storefront within the Center at 6th development.

Maxi European Grocery opened last month at 2679 100th St. in Urbandale. The specialty grocer brings Bosnian and other southeast European flavors to the metro. Read more on Axios.

Rollins Mansion is hosting one spicy party June 21. Tequila in the Gardens, a five-course dinner with tequila cocktail pairings, will feature a menu inspired by global cuisines, from Latin American to Asian and Southern fusion.

Templeton 10 Year Single Barrel Rye has been named “Best American Rye Whiskey of the Year” at the 2025 London Spirits Competition, earning a gold medal and an outstanding 98-point score. Need proof? Tour the Templeton Distillery in its namesake town in western Iowa and taste the winning whiskey for yourself.

A study of Google search data from restaurant furniture supplier Seating Masters shows Iowa folks are searching for Mexican cuisine the most among all global cuisines, closely followed by Chinese food in second place and Indian food in third. Search no further than Urbandale to find a global feast right in the suburbs.

Thelma's Ice Cream Sandwiches made it to the top 16 round of voting for the "Coolest Thing Made in Iowa." Help them win it all by voting before May 14.

Events

Saturday: At “Pasta Making: Pappardelle to Ravioli,” you can learn how to make pasta from scratch in the rustic kitchen at Whippoorwill Creek Farm in Lovilia.

Saturday: Head to Firkin Fest at Confluence to try a lineup of 10 experimental brews like “Cherry and Pink Peppercorn South Side Citra” and “Spicy Pickle Sour” for one day only, or until the single cask runs dry. Crowd favorites might become full-time seasonal offerings.

Saturday: The Terrace Hill Mother’s Day Tea offers scones, tea sandwiches and a chance to explore the public portions of the governor’s residence. It’s hosted by the nonpartisan, nonprofit Terrace Hill Partnership, which supports the 1869 mansion’s upkeep.

Monday: Market at Oak Park showcases the Ingersoll restaurant’s lineup of produce and food vendors alongside food trucks and live music.

Tuesday: Winefest’s Toasting Tuesday will take place at the home of Travis and Jenise Rychnovsky and spotlight eight domestic sparkling wines paired with bites from local restaurants.

Thursday: This month’s Savor Moxie dinner theme is “supper clubs.” Chow down on a chef-curated menu of French onion soup, steak Diane and ricotta cheesecake.

Next Friday: The Norwalk Farmer's Market is now open, running every Friday from 4 to 6:30 p.m. through October.

Cookbook review: 'Smitten Kitchen Keepers'

By Haley Scarpino

“Smitten Kitchen Keepers: New Classics for Your Forever Files” by Deb Perelman is one of my favorite cookbooks, full of thoughtfully curated recipes that truly feel like keepers. What I love most about Deb Perelman is her warm and approachable writing. Her recipes are always reliable and deeply satisfying — just the type of meals I return to time and again.

I first discovered Deb through her blog, Smitten Kitchen, which she started in 2006 from her tiny kitchen in New York City. She's a self-taught home cook with a background in psychology and art therapy. Her blog has grown into a trusted source for approachable recipes, and her voice feels like a friend in the kitchen.

Over the years, she's released three best-selling cookbooks: “The Smitten Kitchen Cookbook,” “Smitten Kitchen Every Day” and “Smitten Kitchen Keepers.”

One of the things I admire most about Deb is how seriously she takes recipe testing. She works out of her own kitchen, using everyday tools and ingredients, and tests each recipe multiple times to make sure it works in a real home. She's open about the tweaks and adjustments she makes along the way, and I love how transparent she is about what didn't work. That honesty builds a real sense of trust, so I know if I follow one of her recipes, it will be perfect.

Her latest cookbook, “Smitten Kitchen Keepers,” which came out in November 2022, is a perfect example of everything I love about her style. She writes her recipes for busy home cooks, and her dishes are flavorful but never fussy.

Her latest cookbook, “Smitten Kitchen Keepers,” which came out in November 2022, is a perfect example of everything I love about her style. She writes her recipes for busy home cooks, and her dishes are flavorful but never fussy.

More recently, Deb teamed up with J. Kenji López-Alt, another favorite chef of mine, for a podcast called “The Recipe with Kenji and Deb.” It launched in early 2024 and gives listeners an inside look at how they develop and perfect their recipes. They talk through classics like pancakes, meatloaf and chicken soup, sharing their different approaches and what they've learned through testing. They break down the techniques and ingredients that contribute to a successful recipe. Perelman's emphasis on practicality and flavor complements López-Alt's scientific approach to cooking, providing a comprehensive understanding of recipe creation.

Whenever I read Deb’s blog, cook from her books or listen to the podcast, I'm reminded why I love her work — she makes cooking manageable, entertaining and, most important, delicious.

My dream menu from “Smitten Kitchen Keepers”

Salt and Pepper Limeade (page 279)
Slow-Roasted Chicken with Schmaltzy Croutons (pages 191-192)
The Blondie Chipwich (pages 237-238)

One last note on that chicken: This is one of my all-time favorite recipes. Once you've put croutons under a chicken while roasting it, you will never be the same, and you'll never make roast chicken any other way. A dish at Zuni Café in San Francisco inspired the recipe. It's one of my life goals to eat there one day!