Midsummer dinner in the barn at Lone Oaks Farm. Photo: Christopher Maharry. THE YEAR IN REVIEW: MEMORABLE MEALS OF 2019
By Wini Moranville
Looking back over a year of enjoyable dining in Central Iowa, these highlights stand out:
Rediscovery of the Year: Last winter, I ventured into
Flying Mango after a too-long absence. Not only were the barbecue and the shrimp-and-grits exemplary, it was just so refreshing to encounter
Mike Wedeking, the gregarious, hands-on owner, circulating the room, making us feel like we were in expert hands at every step of our meal.
Lunches I Loved: The Des Moines Art Center’s restaurant got a major menu overhaul when Tangerine took it over in February. I will never eat here without ordering one of their thoughtful and thoroughly unique soups. I also totally dug
Dirt Burger’s vegan burgers, which taste not like meat, but like the appealing plant-based products they’re made from.
Great Casual Eats: With the opening of
Skol: A Pub of Pure Imagination, the
Full Court Press fellas showed us once again that you can have a good time on a dime; the menu refresh at
Truman’s KC Pizza Tavern proved once
again that these guys
—known for beer-centric restaurants
—take casual food seriously.
Favorite New Restaurant: With too many new restaurants to count, this is crowded field! However, the casual-yet-inviting
Lucky Lotus snags my top spot. Not only is the Southeast Asian food fresh and well-crafted, but the decor
—featuring colorful and
creative updates on standard Asian-restaurant touchstones—is downright happy-making.
Best Dining Experience, Period: I have always yearned for seasonally focused meals set amid the pastoral byways of Iowa, and in 2019 I got my wish. I attended two "Dinner in the Barn" events at
Lone Oaks Farm, near Winterset; each featured a five-course feast of local ingredients prepared by chef Aaron Holt (formerly of RoCA). The food
—infinitely refined, yet Iowa hearty
—felt exactly right for the
setting: Dinner was served in a beautifully restored 1850s barn amid gently sloped landscape of grasses, wildflowers and timber. In 2020, Holt plans to head up one dinner in each growing season (spring, summer and fall). To keep abreast of when tickets go on sale, follow him on Facebook at
Doolittle Farm, LLC.
Wini Moranville writes about food, wine and dining for dsm magazine and dsmWeekly. Follow her on Facebook at All Things Food–DSM.