More than a decade ago, Centro energized the downtown Des Moines dining scene with urban-chic ambiance and grand-scale ambition. Its appeal endures: On any given night, the room swells with the animated buzz of a contented crowd. Some pile in for restaurateur-chef George Formaro and executive chef Derek Eidson’s satisfying and sincere takes on Italian-American food (Mama’s meatballs, red-sauced cavatelli and the like). Others seek out the more refined side of the menu, such as seared sea scallops with cauliflower agnolotti. The latter crowd should always check out the daily features.

The restaurant reopened in early February after undergoing renovations.

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